Dama’s various influences — Spanish, Mexican, Peruvian, Brazilian — coalesce around typical Latin American elements like chiles, cilantro, corn and vast sums of fresh citrus. So you get something like bone marrow tricked out with a bright stripe of coarsely chopped pickled serrano peppers, a neat trick that transmutes the smooth, fatty indulgence into something more sharp and vivid. Seafood tostadas are not the monstrous heaving beauties of Sinaloan spots but something just as satisfying: a finely minced ceviche of spicy, tender octopus, calamari and shrimp tossed with tomatoes, charred corn and avocado, served with a short stack of hot, thick tostadas on the side. There’s a marvelous celery salad, a crisp arrangement of Parmesan and tiny, segmented quail egg perfumed by celery leaves and a fresh jolt of lime. A bocadillo of squid ink-blackened calamari, bolstered by pickled peppers and a slash of tart cilantro gribiche, is an intensely piquant addition to the family of Spanish snack sandwiches.

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